Getting Started

If you want to set up a tank for a betta properly, here is the whole thing in one sentence: a heated, filtered, cycled aquarium of around twenty litres or more, with a lid, live or silk plants and gentle flow. Everything below is the detail behind that sentence, in the order you actually do it. This is a setup guide, the shopping list and the build, rather than a care guide. I have written the day-to-day feeding, fin health and behaviour side separately in betta care; this piece gets the tank right in the first place, because a good setup prevents most of the problems the care guide then has to solve. ...

It is the question every new keeper asks, and the honest answer annoys people because it is not a number. How many fish you can keep depends on which fish, how big they get, the shape of the tank, the filter you run and how often you are prepared to pick up a bucket. What I can do is give you a way of thinking that keeps you out of trouble, and steer you away from the rule that causes most of the overstocked, struggling tanks I get asked to rescue. ...

The first fish you keep matter more than almost anything else you buy. Get a hardy, forgiving species and the inevitable early wobbles, a missed water change, a slightly overdue filter clean, a parameter you did not quite understand, become survivable lessons. Pick something delicate and those same mistakes turn into a row of little bodies and a beginner who quietly decides the hobby is not for them. I have watched both stories play out many times, and the difference usually came down to the fish on that first shopping trip. So this is the list I give friends who are setting up their first tank, with a particular eye on the sort of water most of us actually have coming out of the tap. ...

Every new tank I have set up in the last decade, and there have been a lot of them, has gone through the same invisible process before a single fish went in. It is not glamorous. It involves staring at test tubes, waiting, and resisting the urge to buy fish for weeks on end. But cycling a tank properly is the single biggest difference between a smooth start in this hobby and the miserable, familiar story of new fish dying within a fortnight. This article is the version of the process I wish someone had handed me at the start: what is actually happening in the water, how to do it without fish, how long it genuinely takes, and the handful of mistakes that quietly wreck it. ...

Filter shopping is where a lot of beginners get fleeced, not because the filters are bad but because the marketing answers the wrong question. Boxes shout about carbon cartridges, five-stage systems and crystal-clear water, when the only question that matters is: how much surface area does this thing give the bacteria, and how much water does it move past them? I run every major filter type across my tanks, from air-driven sponges on shrimp and fry tanks to a canister on the big community tank, and the honest news is that all of them work. The job is matching the type to the tank, not finding the mythical best one. ...

If I could change one thing about how fish shops sell to beginners, it would be the little “starter kits”. The 20 litre cube with a light in the lid, the plastic bowl with a goldfish sticker on the box. They look manageable, they fit on a desk, and they are the single biggest reason new keepers give up in the first three months. I run a room full of tanks now, from 30 litre shell dweller boxes up to a proper community tank, and I will tell you plainly: the small ones are the hard ones. If you are buying your first aquarium, buy bigger than you think you want. Somewhere between 60 and 100 litres is the sweet spot, and here is why. ...